We always choose places facing the sun and protected from the strong wind. The planting distances are 45 to 50 centimeters for the shrubs and 2 to 3 meters for the climbing ones. They prefer rich soils that drain well, while with the addition of organic matter (peat, manure, leaf litter) ideal conditions are created. Before planting, potted roses are soaked in water for about an hour to obtain the desired humidity. We cut the new shoots if there are any and remove the pot carefully so as not to break the ball of soil, giving a dry blow to its lip. We place the plant in the pit, making sure that the node of the vaccine is a little below the surface of the soil. We cover the plant with soil or preferably with a mixture of manure, mulch and the existing soil, treading the soil carefully so as not to injure the plant. We create an irrigation basin and water abundantly with about 10 liters of water and repeat the next day. In the following days, we observe the humidity of the plant and act accordingly.
The pruning of the rose is done once a year before the beginning of spring, in February for the northern and cold areas and in January for the southern and hot ones. In the bushes we remove the dry, thin, crooked and aged branches from their base. We remove 2/3 of the normal branches, leaving 1/3 of their original form. In the climbing ones, we remove the dry and old branches from their base. Then we leave 3 to 4 centimeters of the flowering shoots from the guide branch. We bend the useful ones guide branches, we tie them to their supports, slightly cutting their ends (in this way, flowering is favored).
Meilland roses are continuous flowering and their regular fertilization favors the growth and the good image of the plant. Fertilize with a teaspoon of a complete fertilizer starting from March until August and add organic matter (peat or manure) to the soil carving slightly around the plant. The plants in the first year of planting should not be fertilized.
ENEMIES AND DISEASES
1. Black spotting: It manifests itself with black, round spots on the leaves which then turn yellow and fall. Continuous rainfall favors the appearance and development of the disease. To combat it, the affected leaves must be collected and thrown away and the plants must be sulfurized preventively. In large infestations, sprinkle with a special fungicide. .
2. Powdery mildew: It appears as white fluff on fresh leaves, buds and shoots which it deforms and eventually destroys. Regular wetting of the leaves favors the disease, as does planting plants in shady places. It is fought with sulfurization.
3. Rust: It is characterized by the orange pimples on the lower part of the palm of the leaves. Spray with a special fungicide.
4. Downy mildew: Brown spots of irregular shape mainly on the central nerve of the leaf. It affects the young leaves which then fall. It is fought with a special fungicide.
Finally, enemies of the rose are various insects such as bees, fleas and mites. They are fought with specialized insecticides and acaricides.